Soviet Union Trip
1978
Dear Cha-Wel-Dor-Sue,
Never,
never, never underestimate the power and the dynamism of the Soviet
Union. It is evident everywhere - in their aerofloat aircraft, their
modern apartment construction, in their heavy industry, hydroelectric
dams, beautiful museums, modern city planning, and their love of the
arts. No one seems to be unemployed, and everyone works. There is no
welfare, no hand-outs, a certain elitism exists, to be sure, and the
bureaucracy enjoys all sorts of favorable "perks". However, the
actual salary difference in rubles between the man at the top and the
man at the bottom is not great, and at least looks well on
paper.
The
Soviet Union is a far greater melting pot than the United States ever
was, and in Alma Alta, capital of Kazakstan, the newspaper is
published in five tongues.
The
pride an American has in his home is the same pride that Soviets have
in their cities and republics. Everything, except a few essential
personal possessions, belongs to the State or to everyone.
Education
is universal and a nation that was totally illiterate a generation or
so ago is now remarkably enlightened. It is no wonder that the Third
World greatly admires the Russian accomplishment, and would seek to
do likewise.
In
the New Constitution, not only is universal education mandated but
housing as well! To be sure, they are behind things at the moment,
but the Constitution prescribes free housing for all.
Were
I a peasant, a serf, an illiterate, etc., I would have been a
revolutionary and a disciple of Lenin. It is the religion of the
future for a great many people on this globe for it acknowledges only
the accomplishments of man. The churches in Russia and its temples
and synagogues are now beautifully preserved as part of their natural
heritage and are serving as museums open to the public. They are a
source of pride and are being restored and preserved, as is the
national Heritage.
The
Soviets, like the Incas, have incorporated adjoining societies and
have preserved their cultures and languages. Time will tell what will
happen to Hungary, Czechoslovakia, Poland, and East Germany, etc.,
and more recently, Afghanistan.
Leningrad,
almost totally destroyed by the Nazis, withstood a siege of 900 days,
and is virtually completely restored to its former glory. It is one
of the most beautiful cities in the World. The present day paranoia
and suspicion of the Soviets is not entirely a matter of the Party's
security program but something inherited from the Czarist regimes.
Fear of invasion was always known to the Russians, and Russia had at
one time or another been ruled by Sweden, Germany, Poland, Turkey,
and particularly by the Tatars, or Mongols, who ruled Russia for over
300 years. Modern Russia has decreed that it will never happen again.
Their land is immense, their resources inexhaustible and largely
untapped, their defense establishment is second to none, and their
cities are so widely scattered that an invasion is no longer
possible. Moscow, the heart of the Union, is no longer capturable,
for it is ringed with sophisticated weaponry.
The
cleanliness of the cities is real, for every thoroughfare is broomed
and washed daily and littering is a crime. Jay-walking is also
punishable.
The
generosity of Russians as individuals is genuine, and a national
pride in their motherland is conspicuous everywhere, in their
government buildings, parks, theaters, public facilities such as the
subway, etc.
Consumer
foods are not a high priority but the essentials of housing and food
and clothing are available to all, although occasionally, when it
comes to food, one must wait in line and pay under the
counter.
Athleticism
is promoted and nurtured from early childhood and competitive sports
are encouraged. Olympic gold medals are used as a measure of the
success of the Soviet system and sports palaces abound all over
Russia.
Night
life is virtually non-existent.
Russian
aircraft, and particularly the Ilusyhun 62 with four rear engines is
the equal of any in the World in power, performance and appointments.
We flew non-stop from New York to Moscow and it was a breeze. The
Tupelow 104 is a two-engine plane (like the 737) but with pods close
to the fuselage, and the Antonov 154 is a large tri-jet, like our
727, but larger. Finally, the Ilusyhun 18 and the Yak 40 (corporate
tri-jet) are great planes and the Communist countries will soon be
flying them everywhere. Russian aircraft are competitive with the
best of the Western World and their air fields appear to be adequate
and their airports are improving. Certainly their pilots are the
equal of those anywhere in the World.
When
we were in Moscow, we were tremendously impressed by the practice of
wedded couples going immediately to the local Socialist shrines and
declaring their allegiance first to mother Russia and secondly to
each other. Marriages are civil ceremonies and take about 10 minutes
after which they go immediately to such places as the Tomb of the
Unknown Soldier, Lenin's Tomb and so forth. The ceremony is designed
to emphasize their love of country first and love of family
second.
One
of the smart things that Lenin did with his first decree - and this
is rather impressive to me - was to preserve all objects of
historical interest, such as churches, art treasures, palaces,
mosques, Madrassahs, etc., and this proved to be a far-sighted move.
His second decree was that all land belongs to the Soviet, and that
all means of production belong to the people. His third decree was
that electrification should be brought to all the parts of Russia, as
this was essential for the development of every part of the
country.
It
is interesting that as we visited cities like Taskent in Ubekstan, we
came across beautiful modern buildings which were called Houses of
Friendship, and they served as visitors centers where foreign
dignitaries were welcomed and made to feel at home. There are exposed
the accomplishments of the respective republics and their plans for
the future of the region. The economic progress and the capital
improvements are graphically portrayed and visitors from the
emerging, or Third World, countries, cannot help but be impressed by
these museums. Secondly, when one visits the newer capitals, the
extent of city planning really is remarkable. Large areas are devoted
for public gatherings and parks abound.
At
the present time, the young are now going voluntarily to Siberia and
these people are called Syberskis. They are going there primarily
because of the extra pay and also to some extent due to the idealism
and pioneer spirit of the young-at-heart. Bratsk is one of the cities
that we visited and which at one time had the largest hydroelectric
plant in the world and we were told that the average age there was
approximately 26 years of age. Many of the young have already started
eastward from Irkutsk and they are building the railroad from Lake
Baikal to the pacific coast. They are going to have two railways
paralleling each other from the west to east directions, the other
railroad being the Trans-Siberian railroad.
The
economic development of the Soviet Union surpassed my most
extravagant impressions. Industrially, agriculturally, educationally,
scientifically and so forth, and the development of their cities,
with magnificent buildings, parks, revolutionary squares, museums,
theaters, and their superb mass transportation, were all most
impressive. To be sure, the wants of the average people in the way of
consumer goods, has been shelved aside for the moment and their main
interest is in building an Army, Air Force, and Navy second to none,
so that Russia will never, never, never ever again be ruled by other
than Russians. Russia is so vast that from its western end to its
eastern end, it covers eleven time zones.
Lastly,
it is only fair to say that all the time that we were in Russia, we
were completely aware of the fact that we were being observed and no
one could depart very far without his presence being made known to
one of the guides. On each bus, there was the official In-tourist
guide but there was always someone else who was observing and the
inference was that she was learning to become a guide. In reality,
she was a member of the KGB.
It
is interesting in some of the smaller cities to notice that they also
have voluntary law enforcement and corps of young people patrol at
night to clear the streets of the drunks and suspicious characters.
It is known all too well that Russia has a high ratio of
alcoholism.
Constant
surveillance is a fact of life in Russia and one is always aware of
an In-tourist observer who accompanies the official guide. One can
photograph everything except military installations, aircraft, and
airfields.
The
heroic monuments which were built after the Great War, or so-called
Second World War, are of stupendous proportions and they are
awe-inspiring. No young Russian could be left untouched after
witnessing, the tremendous tributes to the dead of the Russian
wars.
The
national Russian drink is vodka and Stolichnaya and Russikaya are
among the best. Flavored vodkas are delightful and we enjoyed some
Hunter's vodka flavored with grass and herbs, some lemon vodka, some
Bison vodka, and cherry vodka, and all are especially smooth and can
be sipped with delight. There is no cutting, burning or scorching as
it descends one's palate. It appears to be just smooth as velvet, and
this may be due to the presence of some glycerine. American brands of
vodka are used with mixes and are not drunk straight.
Georgian
and Armenian cognac and brandies are the equal of the French, if not
better, and the Armenian wines are good and expensive.
The
final thought I have is that the Russians love their arts and their
music and their ballet, and I am sure that the Russian system of
education, which takes children with extraordinary ability and then
harbors and nurtures them along the entire course of their education
is a sound method of bringing out the best in people. The brightest
students are selected to go ahead and many of them are not given a
choice of work but told upon graduating from their technical
universities, that 1,200 petroleum engineers are needed this year and
they are assigned to such work.
Lastly,
the one thing that we truly enjoyed in Russia was the inexpensiveness
of its entertainment. We attended the Marinsky Theater in Leningrad
and the Bolshoi in Moscow. Our tickets cost about $2.50 a
piece.
I
enjoyed the trip to Russia but next time, will visit Georgia and
Armenia and the area around the Caspian Sea, as they say this is
truly beautiful and should not be missed.
Sincerely,
DAD
CEJ/ngb
or