South Africa
March 1981
Dear Cha-Wel-Dor-Sue,
On
Friday, March 13, 1981 Pat and I drove to Bayonne, New Jersey, where
once again the supreme example of hospitality was shown to us. If
ever any family manifests unadulterated and genuine joy at seeing
other members of the clan, the Bayonne Jacobson's are it. Ken and
Ruth out on our west coast are equal examples of such sincere family
pride and sincerity. Pat and I are also hopeful that we are
comparable examples.
After
a delightful dining experience, Bill drove us to the Kennedy Airport
and then returned our car to Bayonne where it was secured until our
return from South Africa. In the interim he had it washed and filled
with gasoline and was prepared to pick us up on our return. He truly
deserves and merits the title of "brother".
The
flight to South Africa took fifteen hours on a 747 with a mid-way
fuel stop in the middle of the night at Ilha Do Sal, an island in the
Cape Verde Islands. There is nothing to see there except the presence
of a Russian Illyushian 62, a four engined jet aircraft, and a lot of
apparent Cubans in the airport at the same time. Most of us assumed
that they were either going to or coming from Angola.
We
arrived in "Joburg" as the sun was setting, and we saw something of
the central business district from the air. It is obvious that it is
a new and modern city with tall and modern skyscrapers. On the
following morning we were taken on a tour of the city and saw
something of the central business district as well as the suburbs of
the city. Unfortunately we were unable to see Soweto or the so called
Southwest Township where some 1.2 million blacks are housed. It would
have been nice to see this community but time simply did not permit a
visit. However, many of our fellow tourists did have this opportunity
and they described that it appeared to be a fairly nice city with
nothing that resembled the slums of the north end of Hartford or Park
Street, or other so called ghetto areas such as Harlem. In the
afternoon we made a trip into the country for a series of tribal
dances and an outdoor barbecue. In essence the whole day Sunday was
rather dull and uninteresting.
On
the following morning we took the "Blue train" to Capetown, some
one-thousand miles in twenty-four hours and saw much of the
variegated topography of the country. As we left Joburg we saw many
gold mines with the huge heaps of tailings, and at sunset arrived for
a fifteen minute stop at Kimberly, the diamond capitol of the world.
Unfortunately, we could not leave the station in order to see the
largest man made hole in the world, which is just outside the city
limits. The night for us was more or less a total disaster, as I did
not sleep a wink even with a hypnotic, and trains are certainly not
for me anymore. The constant motion and the noise of the train was
too much for my nervous system. When the sun came up we were in the
mountains and soon saw some fields with cattle ranches and later some
vineyards. South Africa is a vast country and one can only appreciate
its size either by driving a car or seeing it from a train window.
Flying over it gives one no idea at all of its immensity and
diversity. Blacks outnumber the whites 4 to 1, and we certainly saw
many of them from the window of the train as we passed the small
communities. The ratio poses a problem not only today but for
tomorrow as well. It is interesting that the people of South Africa
are classed as white (Europeans), black (natives), and finally
colored which does not mean a mixture of white and black but rather
represents an entirely separate ethnic group such as the Nalasians
who were brought in to serve as slaves by the Dutch during the early
days of the settlement of South Africa. Perhaps included in this
would be the Indians as well.
Capetown
is the antithesis of Johannesburg. It has a renowned history (the
oldest town in South Africa), tradition, color, and a magnificence
all of its own. Capetonians are proud of their city, which for six
months of each year serves as the capitol of South Africa, the so
called Legislative Capitol. It alternates in this regard with
Praetoria. In Capetown, legislation is formulated and later executed
or administered in Praetoria. The city itself is nestled below their
beloved "Table Mountain" and is both old and quaint and yet modern.
Much of the new central business district is along the water front on
land reclaimed from the sea. Our city tour of Capetown was most
enjoyable, but served as merely a prelude for a full day tour of the
Cape Peninsula which we took on the following morning, and which took
us to the very end of the Cape of Good Hope. It is here that the
Indian Ocean current or the so called Mozambique, meets the cold
Atlantic current or the so called Benguela current. The point
actually furthest south is Cape Agulhas, but the warm Indian waters
pass beyond this point before meeting the current flowing up from
Antarctica. On the cape is a natural reserve with a few animals and
there are surprisingly some 2,600 variations of wild flowers. This is
more than exists in all of Europe. It is said that in the spring it
is ablaze with color, and Sir Francis Drake said it was the most
beautiful of all the Capes he passed on his circumnavigation of the
globe. On the following day we visited the Stellenbosh Wine Country
and this was also a memorable visit. It is interesting to note that
wine was produced here since 1659. It comes as no surprise,
therefore, that at the last International Wine Festival held every
year in London that South Africa won more gold medals than any other
country in the world (36). Our visit to one of the fine wine houses
was most enjoyable although we were only permitted to taste six of
the twenty-six varieties produced on the estate. They use the
varietal designation, such as Rieseling, Pinor, Chardonnay, and do
not employ any generic appellations, such as, Bordeaux, Burgundy,
etc. The quality is carefully controlled by a national board of wine
examiners and nothing may be sold unless it meets the rigid standards
and the qualifications of the board. Estate wines are pure and not
blended. Some day, maybe, they may be available in the United States.
They are available, incidentally, in the state of Canada as I have
had some of them in Vancouver.
Stellenbosh
is a beautiful city of 35,000, 12,000 of which are university
students and the language used in this city is "Afrikans", as
contrasted to the University of Capetown where they use the English
language. Stellenbosh is essentially Dutch in character and most of
the town is a "Historical District" and must remain as such and never
altered. Our pictures, hopefully, will give you some appreciation of
this unique and beautiful city. All of the cape provinces are
cognizant of the fact that much of their original ecology has been
altered, and laws have been passed preserving the remnants of
yesterday and restoring the past, i.e certain trees cannot even be
cut down for one hundred years and re-plantings are mandatory. Even
the super highways are replanted with the original flora and fences
are required along the entire length of the freeways in order to
preserve the natural fauna.
The
trip from Capetown to George was only thirty-five minutes by air and
it was here that we started the so called "Garden Route Tour". It
actually began in Mosel Bay. We drove by motor coach to Plattenberg
Bay, a resort area, and were housed in the beautiful Deacon Island
Hotel. It is a beautiful area and resembles comparable areas in both
Florida and California.
The
Beacon Island Hotel sits out on a spit of rock and is literally
approached on a causeway. The setting is ideal for honeymooners and
conventioneers, and while we were there the South African Society of
Anesthetists were gathering for their annual meeting. They were
expecting eighty visitors from foreign lands, one of whom was Eaman
Flanagan from Manchester, Connecticut, an anesthetist at the
Manchester Memorial Hospital. Alas, Eaman arrived on the day after we
departed. We are feeling as we go along that the South Africans are
as friendly, as open, and as gregarious as their counterparts that we
met in Australia and New Zealand. Our English colleagues that we met
in London two years ago were equally hospitable and gracious, but a
bit more formal and a little less relaxed. Pat and I hope to revisit
many of our British Colleagues in June in Montreal, Canada, when a
combined meeting of the Canadian Urological Association and the
British Association of Urological Surgeons are holding a joint
meeting at the Bonaventure Hotel. God willing we shall be
there!!
After
leaving Plattenberg Bay we drove along the "Garden Route" to Port
Elizabeth, a beautiful port city, immaculately clean, and beautifully
adorned with flowers. We had lunch at the Port Elizabeth Hotel after
which we saw beautiful ranches and farms and the rolling terrain with
the mountains on our left and the Indian Ocean on our right. We then
flew from Port Elizabeth to Durban on the Indian Ocean and this
flight took approximately one hour. We arrived in mid-afternoon and
were settled in the Maharani Hotel, surely one of the most beautiful
hotels in South Africa and perhaps in all the world. In fact, it
reminded Pat and me of the Taj Mahal in Bombay and the Oberei in New
Delhi.
Durban
is the largest port in South Africa and the tenth largest in the
world, moving some 36,000,000 tons of shipping per year. Despite its
industrial prominence it is truly a beautiful city and bears some
likeness to Rio de Janeiro in that its major hotels are situated
along the so called Marine Parade or along the beach front. Like Rio,
the land rises fairly abruptly and the suburbs are built on the hill
or mountainside, and afford magnificent vistas of the city and
harbor. Its Botanical Gardens are unusually beautiful and one senses
an inordinate pride in the city itself. One third of its population
is Zulu, one third Indian, and one third European, and separate
hospitals exist for each group. Segregation is seen in the "Johns"
and in transportation and various other services. Downtown there is
an Indian district with its temple and mosque and some 20% of the
Indians in Durban are Moslems. We passed up an opportunity to visit a
Zulu district in order to get better acquainted with the city of
Durban itself. At night we dined in the Raffles Room on the
thirty-second floor of the Maharani, and I can only describe it as
elegant. In fact, in every hotel that we had stayed at, Pat and I had
decided that the only way to go was the elegant way and I have
actually enjoyed the experience, although my pocketbook certainly
suffered as a consequence of it. Some of our friends were accustomed
to this way of life and sort of dragged us along. Certainly we could
not do this frequently, but it was enjoyable while we were at it.
Tomorrow we will be off to Kruger National Park and from all I heard
it will be a disappointing experience after having visited Kenya. We
so thoroughly enjoyed Kenya that we are hopeful that Kruger will not
be too disappointing. When we visited Kenya we were disappointed
because the borders with Tanzania were closed just two weeks prior to
our arrival, and therefore we were denied the opportunity to see the
Serengeti Plain, the Ngorogoro crater and the Olduvai
Gorge.
The
flight from Durban to Shukusa in the Kruger National Park took two
and one-half hours in a D.C. 3, again unfortunately there was a delay
of one and one-half hours due to "operational difficulties". However,
one must always be prepared for these situations and with a good book
to amuse us we accepted the inevitable.
Kruger
Park is interesting in that the animals are free and the people are
caged. The animals are free to roam as they please and the land is
theirs and the people are strictly confined to their buses or small
vans. One does one's photography largely through the tinted glass
windows of our bus or the partially opened window of a small van.
Kruger park is ideal with a pair of binoculars but to a man with a
camera it is frustrating. It is no match for the set up in Kenya and
if you have only one choice by all means select Kenya.
This
morning we saw Cheetah, Lionesses, Jackals, Hyenas, Warthogs, Kudu,
Impalas, Hippos, Baboons, Water Bucks, Steenboks, Duikers, many
Wildebeasts, Zebras, Elephants, and Giraffes galore! A good day for
viewing. We had three trips that began at 5:30 a.m. to 7:30 a.m., a
bite for breakfast, and then out again until 12:00 noon. A short
siesta followed and then another game trip from 4:00 - 6:00 p.m. in
the evening.
On
our final day in Kruger National Park we were awakened at 4:30 a.m.
and had another four hour game drive until we left the National Park,
and then on to Johannesburg driving a total of some 350 miles that
day. We passed through rolling terrain which was given over largely
to cattle grazing, farming, and past vast areas planted with corn,
sunflower seeds, and Sorghum. It is a beautiful country and seems to
be self sufficient in all except oil. Their coal gasification plants
are the finest in all the world and hopefully in ten years they may
be entirely independent of the Middle East. Platinum and uranium are
by-products of their gold mining and at this moment South Africa
provides 65% of the free world's gold. Even their so called "heaps"
or mountains of tailings are being reworked to extract the last
traces of this precious metal.
On
our last day in the Transvald we planned to visit a gold mine and
museum, and made a tour of Praetoria, one of its capitols.
On
our last day in South Africa we did indeed visit a gold mine museum,
Crown Mine Fourteen, which really is an abandoned mine being restored
as a museum. The original overhead shaft apparatus is still in tact
and one is taken down to a depth of some six hundred feet in the
vertical shaft and then escorted along one of the exhausted gold
bearing veins or so called reefs. These are horizontal shafts that
emanate from the vertical shaft. We were equipped with a hard hat,
rubber coats, and boots as well as the head light and every step in
the mining of the ore was described to us by a retired miner. In the
veins one cannot see any gold and anything that does indeed resemble
gold is iron pyrite or so called "fools gold". The shaft actually
descends to almost 2,000 feet but we were only taken down to the
first level. Incidentally, it takes almost five tons of crushed rock
to yield a fraction of an ounce of gold and as I have said
previously, the by-products of the refining process are silver,
uranium, and a small amount of copper. It is interesting as one looks
out the window of the Hotel Carlton in Johannesburg that one sees
mountains of tailings or the residue piled high here and there and
might actually be mistaken for small hills. In the original process
for the extraction of the gold or the so called mercury process only
70% of the gold was recovered and so today they are reworking these
heaps using a new cyanide process and this is apparently profitable
in view of the high price of gold at this moment. On the surface we
were shown the entire process for the refining of the gold. At this
moment the museum is being enlarged so that it will represent the
original gold mine as it existed in the middle of the last century.
There is also a small steam engine that takes you for a small ride
around the premises.
The
last afternoon prior to our departure was spent in visiting
Praetoria, the administrative capitol of the Republic of South
Africa. It is like Joburg, situated on a plateau 5,000 feet above sea
level and resembles Denver in some respects. Praetoria is indeed a
beautiful city with magnificent gardens. The government city is
largely occupied with bureaucrats, and in this regard it is
interesting that 50% of the population is white and 50% is black. It
was here that we saw the remarkable Vortrecker Monument which is
situated high on a hill and which pays adequate testimony to the
courage and perseverance of the pioneers who left the Capetown area
seeking freedom from the encroaching British. They fought the blacks,
especially the Zulus on their route northward, and their trials and
tribulations were very much akin to our pioneers who went west
homesteading and had to fight the Indians on route west. Many of the
Vortreckers met with disastrous consequences (such as
massacres).
Let
me say in conclusion that South Africa is a beautiful land,
diversified with rich mineral resources, adequate agricultural
plains, a superb wine industry, and has a great future if the problem
of apartheid or racial segregation can be resolved amicably by
evolution rather than through a civil war or revolution. Being
surrounded completely by black nations, it does pose a problem for
the vastly outnumbered whites who developed this area
originally.
South
Africa has none of the exoticism of the Far East, nor the mystique of
India, nor the mystery of Russia, or the historical antiquity of
Egypt and Greece, but it is a beautiful land, and hopefully will
remain forever so. Apparently all of the surrounding nations are 100%
black and all are aligned against it, and many of whom are dominated
by the Marxist-Leninist philosophy.
One
of the joys of the trip, perhaps to a greater extent than some of our
other trips, has been the new acquaintances that we have made. Many
were physicians and one in particular was a retired doctor from the
navy who was a personal and good friend for many years of Peggy's
dad, his name is Dr. "Chick" Ede. Another doctor who I particularly
enjoyed meeting was Dr. Charles Crow of Burmingham, Alabama, an
internist with a special interest in computer technology and short
wave radio communication. It seems birds of a feather do indeed drift
together, and we spent many enjoyable hours in each others
company.
The
trip home required another sixteen hours of flight, but all in all it
was more than worthwhile and we shall always recall our pleasant two
weeks in this magnificent country called the Republic of South
Africa.
With love,
DAD
or