Dear Cha-Wel-Dor-Sue,

"He who knows only his own country is like a man who reads but the first chapter of a book." (St. Augustine)

In a further effort to add another chapter in our book of travels, Pat and I, admittedly both wonderers and wanderers, chose Morocco, situated in the northwest Maghreb ( northwest Africa.) Morocco is an interesting country of Islamic background that is an anomaly today; a country with one foot in a medieval civilization and one in the twentieth century. The people are largely Berbers, with traditional Islamic religious virtues which must be matched with western democratic ideals, and even with the principles of Marxism-Leninism. Hopefully it's King Hassan II, a friend of the West, will be able to integrate the "old" and "new", and not repeat the Shah of Iran's error of "rushing too rapidly into the twentieth century". Morocco had to be our choice, as Baghdad, Damascus, Shiraz, Isfahan, and other cities of the Middle East were no longer safe for an American traveler. Someday, perhaps, there will be a quietude in the Middle East, and Pat and I can add this area and chapter to our book of travels.

The enclosed map provides the itinerary of our tour and should be of help as you travel with us in our DAD-O-GRAM.

The area now known as Morocco was long occupied by the "blue-eyed" Berbers, whose ethnic origins are unknown. There are, incidentally, traces of neolithic man in the area around Casablanca and the Moroccan area had been visited by the Phoenicians, the Carthagenians, Vandals, and the Byzantians. It was, however, only after the arrival of the Arabs in the eighth century (Moulay Idriss I), that the real history of Morocco began. Since then, there has been a succession of dynasties, each succeeding the other, either through claims of direct descent from the Prophet Mohammed, or through "power rule" based upon murder, poisonings and assassinations, as feudal Islamic barons fought each other to represent the faith. Briefly, the dynasties are as follows: Idriss (788 A.D.), Berbers (Berghouata 950-1100 A.D.), Almoravides (1100-1150 A.D.), Almohades (Unitarians 1150-1213 A.D.), Merinids (1215-1500 A.D.), Sasdis (1500-1600 A.D.), and the present Alaouete dynasty, of which the late Mohammed V and his son, the present King, Ilassan II, is the present heir.

Though our visit only entailed two weeks, it did provide a far better introduction to the country, its geography, topography, economy, political and religious history, and the nature of its peoples (Berbers, Arabs, and Saharans) than any series of books could possibly provide. From my brief period of observation in Morocco I came to certain inescapable conclusions. The wants, at least of the rural Moroccans, are simple and can be summarized as follows: (A) All need an abode, usually clustered in settlements, and differ according to the people and areas involved. The Berbers and Arabs live in brick huts, the Saharans in adobe huts, and the Bedouin nomads in tents woven of black goat hair. (B) All seem to have some sort of transportation: Camels for the Saharans, and mules and donkeys for the Berbers and Arabs. Horses are usually seen only in the northern areas. (C) A plot of land, and this is usually apart from the village, which is used to grow their fruit, vegetables, grains, and if possible, date palm trees. (D) A smaller or larger flock of animals, usually goats, sheep and occasionally some cattle. Once a year, each Muslim family sacrifices an animal and retains one-third for its own use and donates the other two thirds to the needy. It is part of the Islamic tradition of concern for one's fellow man and is sometimes called the Sixth Pillar of Islam. There is virtually no entertainment in the form of radio, TV, cinema and the like, and rural electrification is rarely seen. However, the people seem happy, contented, relaxed, and welcome visitors with a smile and with no apparent evidence of envy.

In contrast with conditions in the country, life in the city is quite different. Most people we met were trades people, making and selling their wares and handicrafts in the souks or bazaars, and these commercial activities take place in the medinas, or cities. Some city dwellers work in government administration, some in industry in the larger cities, and some make a living by entertainment. In the large central square in Marrakesh, called the Diemma el Fna, snake charmers, acrobats, singing and dancing groups (folklore),fortune tellers, scribes, mendicants or beggars, water sellers, etc., all abound and the general effect is that of a ten ring circus! Pick pockets are also on the loose and one of our group was separated in an instant from his wallet!.

The country is overwhelmingly Muslim, with a few enclaves of Jews who live in Mellahs, and a fewer number of Christians, both groups of which are usually confined to the congested cities. Few churches and synagogues are seen, whereas mosques usually, though not invariably topped with minarets, are literally everywhere. At this point a few comments on the Islamic religion may be of interest to you.

There are five pillars of Islam. (A) The Declaration of Faith, a simple act of saying "Allah is the greatest, and there is no other God than Allah, and Mohammed is his messenger or prophet". It is said three times in the presence of three Muslim witnesses and no clergymen, or service of baptism or communion is involved. (B) A promise to practice alms giving. (C) A promise to pray, usually five times a day, before sunrise, at noon, at mid day, after sunset, and late at night. It is usually, though not necessarily, done in a mosque, and after the ablutions, or cleansing of the body. One must face east or look toward Mecca and Medina, and the ritual usually includes reciting some verses from the Koran. One also uses gestures in this ritual and prostrates oneself with one's forehead touching the prayer carpet. Only the Friday noon prayer service is lengthy in character and involves the presence of a religious leader or Inman. The call of prayer is uttered by a muezzim from the top of the minaret (recorded devices are frequently used today), and the following words are uttered: (freely translated)

"Allah is the greatest.
There is only one God, Allah, and Muhammad is his messenger or prophet.
Come to prayer.
Come to salvation.
Prayer is more restful than sleep.
There is no other God but Allah and Muhammad is his prophet
Allah is most high and the greatest."

(D) A promise to observe Ramedan, a month long period of fast, in which one may not eat, drink, or engage in sexual intercourse during the day. (E) An effort to make a Hajj or pilgrimage to Mecca, and if this is not possible, to observe a Moussem at the nearest holy shrine once a year.

A sixth pillar might be added, that of the yearly sacrifice of an animal and its sharing with others.

When one Arab meets another, he is apt to say "Allabu Akbar!" "God is most great". It has many shades of meaning: in war a rallying cry, in peace a prayer, and at any time a sign of fraternal good will. Islam means "surrender or submission to the will of Allah, in whose eyes all men are equal, and all men are brothers". The word Moslem in Arabic means "one who submits". The Moslem faith recognizes Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, and Jesus as humans and prophets, not divine, but also claims that Mohammed's role was the all important one and that was to bring the final revelation to man in the words of the Koran. This book reminds us that "our abode is transitory and our life a loan."

Moroccans are Sunnis (from Sunnah, meaning "custom and law") and are orthodox in doctrine. They are followers of Muawiya, an Arab governor of Syria, who moved the seat of Islam from pious Medina to Damascus, and who had Ali, Mohammed's son-in-law, murdered, and his head hung on a parapet for all to see. In contrast, the Shiites, or Shiahs,are partisans or followers of Ali, Muhammad's son-in-law, and whose leaders are venerated as divinely guided. Schisms,developed as a result of the murder of Ali and have remained to this day The present Iran-Iraq war, is one manifestation of this cleft in loyalty. Both the Sunnis and the Shiahs are implacable enemies of Bahaism, whose founder Bahaullah predicted that another prophet "Bab-the-Gate'' would appear and would gather the diverse peoples and nations of the world together and establish the unity of mankind as promised in all the Holy Scriptures. His insistence, however, that Mohammed was simply another one in the long line of prophets, is the very reason Khomenei of Iran has declared war on the Bahais. For me, the basic ethical tenets of Bahaism are the most rational yet created by man and, furthermore, they also incorporate the concept of a world government. It is an intellectual's religion and was designed to bring the Christian and Hindu, Muslim and Jew, Z.oroastrian and Buddhist together as children of one God. Unfortunately, the creation or the promise of another prophet is it's only defect or Achilles heel, and until it can divorce its ethical principles from the concept of a new messiah, it will be resisted by all formal religions.

Our travels began in Casablanca, the largest city in Morocco and its' commercial center. This city is westernized to a great extent and due largely to the French influence during the French Protectorate (1912-1956). One can wisely spend less time here than elsewhere in Morocco, as it is not unique and is not one of the Imperial Cities, (Rabat, Fez, Meknes, and Marrakesh).

Rabat, the capitol of Morocco, was our next stop, and it is indeed a beautiful city with many magnificent gardens, including among them the garden of the King's Palace. Unfortunately, the palace was not open to visitors. The city also includes the recently built beautiful Mohammed V's tomb or mausoleum.

Tangiers was our next stop, and is perhaps the most frequently visited city in Morocco. It lies just nine miles south of the "Rock" across the straits of Gibraltar from Spain. It is known for its Casbah and Souks, and is something of an international city, having enjoyed an international protectorate for many years. During this period of time, it was exposed to many European influences but particularly those of the French, of Spain, and France. We stayed at the Almohades Hotel, which is situated on the Mediterranean shore and fronts upon a beautiful beach. Incidentally, the finest beaches in Morocco are on the Atlantic side and perhaps the best known is Agadir.

The drive from Tangiers through Tetuan and Cechaouen and Quezzane to Fez was a most beautiful and memorable one, taking us through the Rif mountains and revealing for us the remarkable development in agriculture which the Moroccans have achieved in this area. Aside from the export of phosphates, which are mined in the south, and the export of finished leather products, the grains and produce exported accounted for a large part of Morocco's gross national product.

Fez is the oldest of the Imperial Cities and was founded in 808 by Idriss II. It is the cultural and intellectual center of Morocco and the local intelligentsia, the Fassi, are very proud of their city and heritage and consider themselves as special as any Florentine Prince or any Boston Brahmin. The city is so beautiful that one historian remarked "Oh Fez! All the beauties of the earth are to be found in thee". Fez is the "Mecca' of the west, and the "Athens" of Eastern Islam. Its University, Karaween, is as old as the Al Azbar in Cairo and dates from the ninth century. There is so much to see in Fez that it would take another DAD-O-GRAM to mention only a few of the many magnificent mosques, palaces, Medersas (madrasahs or religious schools), gates, etc. It is surely a must stop on any trip to Morocco.

Meknes is near Fez, and also an Imperial City. It was often the rival of Fez. Sultan Moulay Ismail, one of the founders of the Alaouete dynasty, endeavored to make it the Versailles of Morocco and almost succeeded. The Bab Mansour gate with its beautiful arabesque designs is one of the most photographed gates in all of Morocco. There is a large ten acre pool in Meknes and stalls for 12,000 horses and granaries as big as cathedrals with silos where 20,000 prisoners and slaves were locked up. This will give `you some small idea of the grandiose ideas that were conceived by Sultan Moulay Ismail to make Meknes the greatest city in Islam. Meknes is also a must for any visitor.

Nearby and only a short distance from Meknes is Moulay Idriss, situated on the peak of a small mountain top. This small town contains the tomb of the founder of the first Arab dynasty to rule Morocco (Moulay Idriss I).Also a short drive from Meknes is Volubilis, a superbly well preserved and partially restored Roman capitol. Its remarkable mosaics are better preserved than those of Pompeii or any others that I have seen. The Triumphal Arch and the Basilica are particularly beautiful and testify eloquently to the engineering and architectural skill of the Romans.

After leaving Fez, we drove over the middle Atlas mountains to Erfoud in the Sahara. Suddenly the only green areas were those of the oases seen along the almost dry river beds. It was here that we met the Saharans whose women dress in black clothing, and we also met many Bedouins or nomads who live in black tents made of goat hair and whose lives must be very similar to those of our gypsies. Our real purpose in coming to this area was to walk barefoot in the sands of the Sahara and to watch the sun rise over the dunes as we faced east and Mecca. To get there we were up at 4 o'clock in the morning and drove some 26 miles in a British Rover to wait disappointedly for the sun to rise. Unfortunately, a heavy cloud cover concealed the sun's rising and later a few drops of rain actually fell in the desert!

In order to get to Marrakesh we drove back over the High Atlas mountains crossing the pass at a height of 7,125 feet. Some of the mountain peaks in this area reach over 14,000 feet. Its ruggedness matched anything we have seen in our Rockies and there were many switch backs, U-turns and roads without any guard rails whatsoever. It made one hold one's breath and look away from the precipitous cliffs. We overnighted at El Kelaa and the next day drove to Quazazate and then on to Marrakesh.

Marrakesh is the second oldest city in Morocco and known as the "Pearl of the South". It is situated in the plain of Haouz between the High Atlas snow capped mountains to the east and the Sahara to the south. It is the great city of the Berbers and has preserved the pure medieval structures of the period of its foundation. The Koutoubia mosque, the Ben Youssef Medersa, the Place Djemaa el Fna, the Saaidis tombs, are only a few of the many interesting sites to see. While in Marrakesh we were housed in the most famous and beautiful hotel in all of Morocco, and Winston Churchill's favorite, the Hotel Mamounnia. Marrakesh is surrounded by ramparts or a wall some two and a half miles long with a crenelated top and some twenty entrance gates. While in Marrakesh we made a trip to the outskirts to see a "Fantasia" or demonstration of Berber horsemanship. A dozen or more charged full speed ahead on beautiful mounts firing their muskets in the air, like a cavalry charge. We had lunch in Berber tents on oriental rugs and enjoyed cous cous, chicken Tagine, pastries, and mint tea, all of which are favorites of the Moroccans.

The dress of the Moroccans is interesting and quite uniform. The men wore jellabas with hoods and the women wore cloth clothing of various kinds. Many of the women were veiled or kept their face covered with head pieces. The color and design of the dress was frequently helpful in identifying the area from which they came. The dress of the Arabs was distinct from that of the Berbers and from that of the Saharans.

Should one want to visit Morocco, I would recommend reading Faith Mellen Wilcox's book entitled "In Morocco". She opens her narrative with the dilemma facing modern Morocco today, and in fact, all Muslim countries. No humanism born of the Renaissance came to modify the rigid scholasticism of religion and learning. No Reformation or Age of Enlightenment eroded the absolute theocratic power of the Sultan, who was both Pope and Emperor in one. The Sultan's power was absolute and no one entertained the thought of the consent of the governed. While dynasty succeeded dynasty in Morocco, things have only changed since the country won its independence in 1956 and Mohammed V was recalled from exile in Madagascar to serve as its new King. He died in 1961 after an anesthetic accident from a relatively minor operation, and was succeeded by his son Hassan II. Today, there is an elected assembly and there is representative government. The governors of each province, however, are appointed by the King. No one, so far as we could determine at present entertains any thought of abolishing the Constitutional Monarchy. Labor movements exist and we were there on May Day and observed some marching in Casablanca. The labor movement appears to be socialistic in nature and not dictated by the tenets of Marxist-Leninism.

Morocco is a friend of the U.S.A. and, in fact, proudly reminds its visitors that it was the first government in the world to recognize the United States of America and our President George Washington.

Fortunately we took two weeks to see Morocco, for if we had not, I would have been reminded of a recent statement that I have read on traveling. "There is nothing more fruitless than the drunkenness of kilometers and the lightning flash crossing of continents. Prisoners of our own speed, of the noise of our busses and cars, we isolate ourselves from the countries we visit as surely as if we looked at them through the glass of museum cases." Now that I have retired, perhaps it will be possible for Pat and I to travel a little more leisurely and drink a little more heavily of the delights of our trips abroad.

Winston Churchill, in an effort to save Great Britain, promised "Blood, sweat and tears", and Jesus, as one of the basic tenets of Christianity, preached that one should turn one's cheek and not resist violence. Mohammed, on the other hand, was so sure of himself and of his divinely inspired rules, that he set out to convert the rest of the world to his faith. In fact, he almost succeeded in doing so for the Islamic empire was the second largest known to civilization, only being exceeded by that of the Mongols that extended from China to Russia. It is no wonder that he succeeded because his soldiers shared with him the spoils of each victory and he promised his followers that if they died protecting the faith, that they would spend the rest of their lives in "Paradise" When I asked what "Paradise" meant to a Muslim, I was always told that it was probably something like a dreamy state or a mystical experience, in which all of one's wants would be met. They would be welcomed into their 'Heaven' with a feast of 3,000 courses, each giving one an appetite for the next. There would be 80,000 or more servants for each loyal Mu.slim and some 72 wives, all of whom would be virgins. One would never feel over 30 years of age and. would feel as fit as a fiddle in the morning, even after the wildest of parties. How could any young man raised on the Koran resist such promises?

With Love,

DAD

CEJ/ngb