Trans-Siberian Express to Mongolia and the U.S.S.R.
1985
Dear Cha-Wel-Dor-Sue,
Our
trip originated in Moscow, which necessitated our flying via Finn Air
from New York City to Helsinki, then on to Moscow. After a night's
rest in the InTourist Hotel, virtually on Red Square, we enjoyed a
city tour that was essentially a duplicate of that which we had taken
on our previous visit in 1978, and then later in the day, we departed
by plane for Ulan Batur with a one hour stop at Novosibirsk for
refueling. It was a flight of 3,200 miles and carried us across
two-thirds of the U.S.S.R.
The
Soviet Union is a vast country that covers eleven time zones and
constitutes one sixth of the land mass of the earth! It is a vast
country, rich in every imaginable natural resource. Its
potentialities for the future, in my opinion, appear inestimable!
When you combine its productive capacity with that of its satellites,
i.e., Hungary, Czechoslovakia, Poland, Bulgaria, etc., it's power for
greatness seems far beyond that of our country to try and match. In
fact, our natural resources are fast being depleted.
Mongolia
has always been a fascinating country for me, particularly since the
time I read of the exploits of Genghis Khan and his descendants, who
in the 13th century established the largest empire ever known to man.
At its zenith, it included all of China, Russia, the Central Steppes,
northern India, the Middle East, and all of Eastern Europe, except
for Czechoslovakia. How nomadic illiterate tribesmen, equipped only
with remarkable horses and skilled in archery, could accomplish such
a feat seems incomprehensible, but apparently, their cunning ability
to utilize speedy gorilla attacks on sedentary hamlets and cities and
the ferociousness of their battle tactics enabled them to terrorize
the Steppes and to move quickly over long distances. They always
chose to divide and conquer and to incorporate their conquered
enemies into their organization, provided they agreed to serve them
and to pay tribute. As they approached a city, they used the "Three
Flag Technique". On the first day, the Mongols displayed a white flag
and if the occupants of the city surrendered, the people were spared
and the city was added to their expanding empire. If the town
resisted, then on the second day, the Mongols displayed a red flag
and attacked and all of their leaders were massacred, and, if they
resisted a third day, the Mongols displayed a black flag and every
living soul, including women and children, were massacred and the
city destroyed. This form of terrorism was remarkably effective and
they became the scourge of Asia and eastern Europe. Their
organization was superb and a pony type of communication from
Karakoram, their capital, to all points of their empire was
maintained. All tribute was funneled into Karakoram and yet today,
absolutely nothing remains of their empire's capital! They used the
expertise of the captured Chinese to record their conquests and to
compile the statistics of tribute that was paid by their captured
satellites and to create the Yusa, a body of laws that governed
everyone's behavior. The word of the Great Khan was supreme and on
his death, a convention, or quriltai was held and a successor was
named, usually being the strongest character from among the
descendants of Genghis Khan. Ultimately, the decline of the empire
was the result of the fragmentation of the leadership.
A
second reason for going to Mongolia was inspired by reading of Roy
Chapman Andrew's expeditions into the Gobi Desert, looking for the
earliest relics of Man. While he found nothing of significance in
this regard, he did discover vast areas of dinosaur fossils and was
the first to find dinosaur eggs. Today, there are expeditions to
Mongolia but they are largely hunters, seeking trophy specimens of
desert sheep, bighorn rams with 60" curls and massive racks of the
ibex, reindeer, elk, etc. The Mongolian Peoples Republic derives a
considerable sum of money from these hunters because they not only
charge a great deal for the license but also derive a considerable
profit from providing the equipment, guides, supplies, that such an
operation entails. A very inexpensive hunting trip might cost $10,000
but most of them average $25,000 and a truly challenging hunting
expedition into the very highest mountains might entail as much as
$35,000.
Our
visit to Outer Mongolia consisted of two parts:
1) A visit to
the capital of Ulan Batur, with a population of 450,000, and
resembling a Soviet planned city with wide boulevards, many
monuments, and innumerable ministries, palaces of art, and buildings
devoted to entertainment and sport. It is clean, like all Soviet
cities, but basically dull from a tourist point of view. Military
uniforms were everywhere, most of which were Soviet soldiers, and
these were stationed particularly at the airport and at the railroad
station. While the native Mongolians insist they are an "Independent
Republic", they freely admit their close alliance and dependence upon
their northern neighbor, the U.S.S.R. One leaves with the impression
that Mongolia is far from being an independent republic but is merely
another one of the Soviet satellite buffer states. When the Big Bear
coughs, I am sure, the Mongolian catches pneumonia. At the railroad
station, there are two huge photographs, one of Gorbachev and the
other of Batunk, the President of the M.P.R.
The
most interesting part of our Mongolian trip was a flight in an old De
Haviland prop plane from the capital to Kurjit, where we spent the
night in a modern Ger. It is a round structure with the side walls
made of a lattice work of wood covered with several layers of thick
felt. From the walls, ribs extend upwards to a small opening at the
summit, through which smoke or the pipe from the stove emerges. It is
cool in summer and warm in winter. They are transportable and enable
the Nomadic herdsman to live a pastoral life, moving from one range
area to another, dependent upon the grasses available for their
horses, cattle, sheep, and camels. While there, we were entertained
in the evening by a traveling musical group from Moldava, one of the
autonomous republics in the Soviet Union.
The
highlight of our stay in Kurit was a two hour bus trip to the West,
to the site of Karakoram, the former capital of the Khans and which
was destroyed by the Chinese during the Ching Dynasty in the mid
1,300's in retribution for the Mongols' conquest of all of China in
the previous century. While there, we visited the largest Lamaisery
in all of Mongolia, Erden-Dzu. It looks like a typical Chinese temple
complex with many Buddhas and Tangkas depicting evil spirits and
their protectors. Lamaism is a blend of Tibetan Buddhism and native
Shamanism, or Animism (worship of spirits, animal or otherwise).
Today, Buddhism in Mongolia represents a fossilized religion and
there are only 150 practicing Lamas in all of Mongolia. The
government, like that of Russia, is atheistic and discourages
religious expression. In the city of Ulan Batur itself, we also
visited the only viable or practicing Lamaisery in Outer Mongolia,
that of Bogdoden the VIII. I have many pictures to tell the story of
this interesting visit and which reminded me of similar visits in
Nepal. I am sure Siddartha Gautama (Buddha - The Enlightened One),
were he ever to return to earth, would not only not recognize the
expression of his teachings but would both abhor and disavow them. He
never sought to be deified or worshipped. His sole intent was to
provide a way to contentment and happiness by elaborating an
eight-fold path of human conduct.
I
bought a book on Socialism in Mongolia and after briefly scanning it,
I noted that there are 15,000 state farms and 30,000 collective farms
in Mongolia, patterned after the same system in the U.S.S.R.
Productive labor is rewarded by being named "Heroes Of Labor". The
present five year plan is in operation and its intent is to increase
the industrialization of the country. Its motto this year is
"Intensification".
Ulan
Batur is a relatively new city and can be dated from the year 1924.
The word Ulan Batur means Red Hero and was named in honor of
Sukpaatar, a young revolutionary who succeeded in defeating the White
Cossacks and who together with another young man, whose name was
Choibalsan, who was educated in Russia and familiar with its
revolution, were able to form the Mongolian People's Party or the
present day Mongolian People's Revolutionary Party. Socialism must be
given the credit for transforming this totally agrarian, nomadic
society into one that is almost 50% industrialized today. Some day,
undoubtedly, it will probably be a formal part of the
U.S.S.R.
Our
Trans-Siberian Express really began in Ulan Batur and our border stop
into the U.S.S.R. was made at a town called Haywaka. There, we
experienced passport control. The doors were closed and then the
officers came in and wanted to see our passports and made a
superficial examination of our possessions. They seemed particularly
interested in newspapers, magazines and books. On the railroad siding
at that point, we noticed many railroad flat cars loaded with all
sorts of military vehicles and massive tanks, all of which appeared
to be headed south toward the Chinese border.
It
is interesting, and we had noted this previously, that at every
railroad depot and airline terminal, there were racks of literature
espousing the virtues of Communism, as decreed by "Marx - Leninism".
This literature is printed in virtually every language imaginable and
is one of the techniques used by the Soviets to spread the gospel of
Socialism. After reading one of them, entitled "The Foreign Policy of
the U.S.S.R.", I have come to the conclusion that we and the Soviets
do not speak the same language and semantics is the name of the game
of propaganda. The Western Powers are called Imperialists or
Colonialists or Neo-Colonialists, whereas the Soviets are called
Proletarian Internationalists. Their reason for involving themselves
in other countries' affairs is to support People's National
Revolutionary movements and this is in keeping with Lenin's order and
plan to devise a program to enable all of the workers in the world to
unite and to unite in a common cause and organization called
Communism. Years ago, this expansion of Socialism was done under the
banner of the "Communist Internacionale" and was openly advocated.
Today, it is no less dynamic but more discreetly disguised in
promoting peace efforts all over the world, especially in the Third
World or emerging countries. This is one of the cornerstones of
Soviet Socialism and they openly admit that they will not be
dissuaded in this effort and will carry on until all of the countries
of the world are within their orbit ideologically. Detente is merely
a peaceful interlude or merely a prelude to further expansion when
the time and opportunity permits, i.e., Cuba, Nicaragua, Ethiopia,
Afghanistan, etc.
Our
first stop after leaving Ulan Batur was the city of Irkutsk and this
is known as the capital of Siberia. It was built on the Angara River
which connects with the beautiful Lake Baikal. On our previous visit
to this area, the weather was deplorable and rain, mist and smog and
the cold climate conveyed the impression that this was truly a great
place to send people in exile, as was done in 1825 when the Czar sent
the "Decemberist" who were the earliest revolutionaries in Russia.
These were largely princes and nobles who rose up against the Czar's
rule and were suppressed and then, some were executed, and the
remainder were exiled to Siberia.
On
this visit in 1985, the sky was cloudless and the beauty of the city
of Irkutsk, also known as the Heart of Siberia, and especially that
of Lake Baikal, was obvious and breath-taking. Lake Baikal is truly a
"Sea", the largest body of fresh water in all the world, and greater
than all of the Great Lakes combined. It is 400 miles long, 50 miles
wide, and one mile deep, and 40% of its marine fauna is endemic or
unique and found nowhere else in the world. Some 350 rivers enter it
and only one, the Angara, flows out of it northward to join the
Yenesei on route to the Arctic Ocean. It is crystal clear and one can
drink directly from the lake itself. One can also see as much as 120
feet below the surface.
On
our last visit in 1978, we bussed to and from the lake but this year,
we rode the hydrofoil back from the lake to Irkutsk via the beautiful
Angara River. It is interesting that hydrofoils are found virtually
all over the Soviet Union, whereas they are rare in the United
States. The only Hydrofoil that we are familiar with and which is
made in America was the Jetfoil, which we rode from hong Kong to
Macau and which was magnificent and manufactured by the Boeing
Company of Seattle, Washington. We were able to travel in this at
approximately 45 miles per hour.
While
in Irkutsk, we also had lunch in the country at a remote area
approximately 20 miles from the city itself. We had an opportunity to
appreciate the beauty of the Taiga, the limitless expanse of pines,
birches, and large trees, as we wandered our way by bus to the picnic
site high in the hills on the old Road Route to Mongolia. Our picnic
site was that of a log cabin which was typical of that constructed by
the early pioneer Cossacks who were sent east to explore this vast
area of Siberia. The food at the luncheon was befitting a Czar and we
dined with both red and white wines, Vodka, Georgian brandy, caviar,
crabmeat, smoked oysters, fresh fish from lake Baikal, roast lamb,
salami, rice, pot roast with lingenberries, and poppy seed rolls!
Finally, we had the opportunity to truly appreciate the rugged
conditions of the Sibirs, or people who live in this area of the
country, when we had to utilize the conveniences. Nothing was less
primitive and everyone would have given his all for a good old
Sears-Roebuck catalog.
One
of the interesting aspects of having a train to ourselves and also, a
tour guide, was that we had the opportunity to hear from our tour
guide about history of Russia and its government but also the
opportunity to ask questions of him regarding his country and their
policy. It may interest you to know that I asked the following four
questions: "Alex, why did the U.S.S.R. find it necessary to build an
Iron Curtain around their country, i.e., Berlin Wall?" I added that
it seems to serve as a prison wall for your people and prevents them
from leaving your country." He first questioned my use of the word
Iron Curtain and then replied that this was not an act of Russia but
namely a problem between East Germany and West Germany, or the city
of Berlin itself. I thought this was an evasive answer. 2) "Alex, why
does your country find it necessary to jam some of our radio
programs, such as the Voice of America or the BBC?" I said, "No
jamming every occurs in the Western World." He replied that they do
not jam the BBC as that is a legitimate radio station, whereas the
Voice of America and the Voice of Liberty are propaganda stations,
broadcasting false news. 3) "Alec, why has all evidence of Allied
help during the War been erased in Murmansk?" I added that not a
single monument to commemorate the Allies' contribution to your War
effort through this Port is in evidence today. He said he did not
know that this was true but he added that the Allies did make a small
contribution to the victory in the great patriotic War but he also
added that it came awfully late in the course of the War. 4) Why has
the U.S.S.R. always opposed on-site verification of nuclear
installations?" I added, "By so doing, it creates an aura of
distrust." He replied that both the U.S.S.R. and the U.S.A. have the
technical sophistication or expertise to detect any nuclear explosion
anywhere on earth and therefore, on-site inspection was not
necessary. I added that from my point of view, if we both had on-site
inspection, we would have less distrust of each other and greater
respect for each other.
The
next large city that we stopped at, and we stopped at many small
cities for a matter of five or ten minutes, was Krayenoyarsk. This is
a fascinating city on the Yenesei River with a population of 800,000
and growing phenomenally. I made the following comments when we were
in that city. "Today, we are 2,500 miles east of Moscow and we have
traveled almost an equal number of miles from Ulan Batur. The
immensity of this country, the vastness of Siberia, the magnitude of
its railroad development, the number of railroad locomotives and
rolling stock defies and boggles the mind! I have counted perhaps
1,000 electric locomotives on the railroad and the line from Irkutsk
to Moscow is entirely electrified. Can you imagine in the U.S.A. an
electrified line from New York City to Los Angeles? Beyond this line,
diesels carry freight to every major city in the U.S.S.R. and
virtually every community in the U.S.S.R. is accessible to air
traffic utilizing the small Yak-40 to the latest four engine I-86
which is their counterpart to our 747. They also have the beautiful
IL-62 which we flew non-stop from New York City to Moscow in 1978."
All these experiences and sights that we have seen serve to remind me
that perhaps some day, there will be some truth in Kruschev's remark
that "Someday, we shall bury you economically". When I think of
Appalachia and the U.S. Steel industry in the United States, I
realize that we have insoluble problems that a planned society does
not ever experience. We seem to enjoy all the amenities of living but
perhaps in the long run, they may eventually win out. Their unlimited
natural resources and their unlimited assigned manpower, taken
together with their great devotion to "Mother Russia", may all add up
to an eventual victory for Socialism.
A
delightful feature of this trip occurred on three occasions when Mrs.
Ewa Thompson, Professor of Russian Literature at Rice University, and
who secured her PhD based upon her thesis of Shamanism and Its
Relation to Lamaism and Russian Religion, spoke to us in the large
dining room for approximately one to one and a half hours. Her
fascinating accounts of the features of animism and the "Holy Fools"
of Russia were entirely new to us and explained how Russia was able
to accept Rasputin and how it was possible for him to achieve the
great power that he exercised over the people and the nobles of
Russia. This program was far better for us than the originally
planned series of lectures on the Russian language.
Novosibirsk
is the largest city in Siberia and is situated some 2,500 miles from
Moscow. It is a fast growing city with a beautiful opera house and
well-planned wide streets and abundant parks. The chief attraction
for me was the vast scientific capitol of Academe Goroduk where there
are some 26 Institutes of Science. There live the elite of science
and where much of the basic research in science is pursued. I
photographed the Institute of Nuclear Physics which houses the
Tokamak, or the most advanced prototype structure designed for the
creation of fusion energy. It was so well thought out that Princeton
University copied it in order to pursue its interest in fusion
research. It appears that the Russians are not only abreast of us in
this vital area of pure physical research but may actually be ahead
of our studies, which are currently being developed at the California
Institute of Technology, Stanford University, Cornell University,
Princeton University and Massachusetts Institute of Technology. They
even have an Institute of Catalysts and we were told that 86% of all
chemical reactions involve the use of catalysts and they deemed this
sufficient for them to establish a separate Institute of
Catalysts.
Finally,
a one hour's visit to the Geological and Geophysical Institute
revealed to us a magnificent collection of all of nature's gems,
which have been recovered from the earth's surface consisting of
precious stones, rocks, metals, etc. She displayed a map where all of
these were found in Siberia and when I asked her where the uranium
was found, she replied that that was a State secret.
While
in Sibirsk, we spent an evening at the circus in a circular
amphitheater seating 2,500 people. Their main attraction was
excellent juggling and aerial gymnastics, but the only animals that
we saw were a pair of beautiful black horses which performed many
unusual steps and did a bit of dancing. While the clowns were
amusing, we could not appreciate the humor of their remarks, as we
were unable to interpret the language. All in all, it appeared to us
to be a rather poor performance compared to what we had seen in
China, and, in fact, both countries' best efforts were not comparable
to our own Barnum and Bailey and Ringling Brothers Circus
performances. In this area, I believe we are certainly among the best
in the world!
Omsk
was another one of our 15 minute stops and again, the paranoia of the
local police was evident, as pictures are simply forbidden at all
airports and railroad stations. There is, in fact, nothing of
military value at the railroad stations but no pictures is the only
word the local police or militia can utter. Local citizens cannot
take pictures on order of the Minister of Transportation.The people
here do not question such decrees but submit obediently, much as the
serfs of former days never questioned their higher authority, the
Czar.
Our
last two days in Moscow were disappointing to many on our tour
because our full time was not occupied by sightseeing, as we had on
our previous visit with General Tours, Inc., of New York City some
eight years ago. General Tours are the largest wholesalers of trips
to the U.S.S.R. Hence, keep this in mind should you choose to visit
the Soviet Union.
Two
pleasant surprises consisted of an evening of Folk Dancing from
several of the different Republics. The dancing and costumes were
exciting and hopefully, my camera caught some of the colorful
ensembles.
The
second surprise was a visit to the Balalaika Theater on the outskirts
of the Olympic Village adjacent to the Lenin Hills. The orchestral
music was a novelty to us and there were many individual artists
exhibiting their skills with the many varieties of balalaikas. A
concert singer sang and later, we heard from both male and female
artists, and the usual songs were popular Russian songs. The final
act was hilarious, as the conductor started with the number and left
the stage, demonstrating the skill of the orchestra playing without
direction, and then, when he returned to conduct again, the
individual members arose, one by one, in a random fashion, and left
the hall, until finally, he was directing only a single
percussionist, who also ultimately departed. The conductor was all
alone,with an amused and bewildered look on his face. It was a
fitting and funny climax to a most enjoyable evening.
On
the night prior to our departure, we were entertained by the U.S.
Section of the InTourist Organization at a cocktail and buffet
reception at the Nacionale Hotel, where Armand Hammer has his
apartment. The table was resplendent with delicacies of all kinds and
both black and pink caviar was everywhere. The hors d'oeuvres were
varied and solid rows of glasses of champagne, Armenian brandy and
Vodka were in limitless supply. We were formally welcomed and
exchanged toasts. I contributed mine by thanking them for the
opportunity to visit their great country and expressed the wish that
we could live in peaceful coexistence with each other and that the
forthcoming meeting of our two respective leaders, Gorbachev and
Reagan, would be crowned with success. I also explored the idea of
forming a chapter of the United World Federalists in the Soviet Union
and was told it was against their Constitution. In short, my
informant intimated that their intent is someday to Sovietize the
world and to bring their kind of Socialism to all the workers in the
world. As Lenin said, "It is not to be attempted overnight", but at
the right time and in the right place and as circumstances permit,
i.e., when the Communists in each country are strong enough to form a
National Liberation Movement, such as occurred in Cuba, Nicaragua,
Afghanistan and Ethiopia. Now, for the first time, I was told
directly that World Federation is not in the cards but that world
domination of their system is and has always been Lenin's
goal!
After
two visits to the U.S.S.R., one comes to the inescapable conclusion
that given our background in democracy and free enterprise, we cannot
favor any other system, other than our own. Yet, we would be less
than honest if we argued that it was the best of all systems.
Academically, for me, Plato's Ideal Republic has always been the
ideal form of government but that is too ideal to be ever practical.
While we were in Russia, we did not see any area that resembled the
bombed out Bronx in New York City, nor did I see any of the filth or
degradation that I have seen in either the north or the south ends of
Hartford. I realize that our system is far from realizing its best
potential and that, combined with our two trillion dollar budget
deficit and adverse foreign trade balance of 150 billion, is more
than enough to make me shudder. While the average Russian income is
only 200-400 rubles per month (approximately $350.00) the government
reserves the right to print as much money that it needs and can sell
this printed paper to the foreign tourists for use in their country.
Printed paper for hard currency! How can you beat this system? This
is money that never enters the normal financial exchange of the
Russian community. Today, the emphasis in Russia is on increased
capital production or increased industrialization and they have
widely scattered their steel plants, etc. throughout their country,
so that there is no one area that can be destroyed and with it, it's
economy. There is no National Debt in Russia and her wealth consists
primarily of the greatest land mass on the planet. As I have said
before, she has limitless natural resources, a dedicated work force
dominated by the Communist Party, which, while perhaps less efficient
than our Capitalistic System, nevertheless gets things done. The vast
hydroelectric stations, her gas and oil-fired electrical energy power
stations, produce energy to spare and, as we know, the new gas
pipeline is now shipping gas to West Germany and Western Europe!
Fifty years down the road, the U.S.S.R. and China may well be the
mightiest powers on earth. Japan will always be a power so long as
she can continue to import the raw materials needed for production. I
am not an economist and certainly, wouldn't even attempt to compare
the merits of each system but when one looks at this country after
only 70 years of Socialization, one is impressed and when one sees
Mongolia, which only 60 years ago was a completely illiterate
country, with its people living a nomad existence, one cannot help
but be impressed with what Socialism can and has accomplished
elsewhere.
After
leaving Moscow we flew to Helsinki and then, after a very brief wait,
caught a plane to Stockholm, Sweden. We had planned to spend a few
days in Sweden with Pat's distant relatives, Lennart and Elsbeth
Tessmar in Stockholm. On our previous visit to Sweden we stayed with
them at their summer cottage at Torekov in Southern Sweden and had a
most enjoyable stay with them. On this occasion, we were prepared for
a similar reception and we certainly were not disappointed. We were
met at the airport and then all of our free time, except for two days
that we spent in around the Island of Visby, we were constantly
together. Both Lennart and Elsbeth were in good health, in good
spirits, and their hospitality could not have been surpassed. All of
our wishes were provided for and assistance provided at every moment
for whatever wishes and plans we had in mind. It will be hard for us
in the United States to provide an equivalent hospitality. Hopefully,
we can make them feel as much at home in Manchester as we were made
to feel in Sweden. We have already begun to make plans for their
visit, which hopefully will occur next May or June.
Among the many things we did in Sweden was to visit:
1) Prince Eugene's Castle overlooking one of the many rivers, with a beautiful view of the city and all of its walls adorned with the Prince's own paintings, as well as those of other well known Swedish painters.2) A visit to the National Museum, where the Director of the Museum itself could not have provided a more informed tour of its many rooms and its many art treasures from all over the world. Only Leonardo da Vinci and Michael Angelo were missing.
Lennart's detailed history of the early days of Sweden and his knowledge of painting made the visit unusually informative and interesting for me.
3) A visit to Skansen, the Folk Historical Center, situated high on a hill overlooking the city, which provided us with a background knowledge of the early days of Sweden's history.
4) A visit to the "Vasa", the largest and most magnificent sailing vessel of its day, which sailed only 1,000 feet before it toppled over and sank and lay beneath the waters for over 300 years. Apparently, it was improperly designed and constituted a great catastrophe. It was to have been the King's crowning achievement and would enable Sweden to emerge as a Naval power. Apparently, the King played no small role in its construction and this may have been the cause of its demise.
5) A trip by car to the Archipelago, where we saw many fine coves, and inlets, crowded with magnificent sailing vessels, motor boats, and other forms of marine craft. It seemed to us that virtually everyone in Sweden possessed "a summer house and a boat in the Archipelago". While this was certainly not true, one could hardly come to any other conclusion, so numerous were the boats!
6) A day in Uppsala was again fascinating. We revisited the the University where a Surgical Amphitheater had been in operation in the early 1600's. We also revisited the church where Dag Hammarskjold's burial plot is located and the Castle where the genealogical records are preserved. We also returned to Old Uppsala and the ancient burial mounds of the Old Kings and where in 1968, with my children, we drank mead, or fermented honey, from an oxen's horn.
7) A two day visit to the ancient and medieval walled city of Visby. The weather was ideal and we walked the cobblestoned streets until we had seen everything at least twice. It was after the season and therefore, "The City of Roses" was virtually deserted. Most of the stores and shops were also closed, either for the winter season or were only open on weekends. It was only a 30 minute flight from Arlanda, Stockholm's International Airport.
8) A guided tour in English of the City Hall of Stockholm was most interesting and it is known as the home of one of the most beautiful city administration buildings in the world. Stockholm, as you know, is called the "Venice of the North", and is really built upon seven islands. The Nobel Laureate presentations are made here, after which, the conferees retire to the Concert Hall for the Gala Dinner hosted by the King and Royal Family.
9) Lastly, we had a most pleasant day on a boat which took us from Stockholm to Vaxholm. This is a very attractive small town in the Archipelago and a great favorite for people to visit, either by the so-called water taxi or else using their own sailing boat.
As we flew into Arlanda from Helsinki, we certainly had a good idea of what the Archipelago looked like, as it really was composed of thousands of islands, many of which were connected occasionally by bridges.
10) On my last day I visited the Karolinsa Institute and spent a most informative and delightful morning with Dr. Lennart Anderson in his study and operating theater. Dr. Anderson was Head of the Urological Department in the Hospital and Medical School. One of his residents personally escorted me wherever I wished to go. He almost made me with that I was still in the active practice of Urology.
As
we left for home, we had been gone almost a month and were quite
anxious to see that everything was in order as we had left it. We
were not disappointed, as everything had been well maintained in our
absence and now, we can sit back and rest and plan for another trip
some day.
With Love,

Dad
1985
CEJ/ngb
T11/29/85
or